Gently rolling hills stretch to the horizon. The soil is yellow and brown. A scattering of cork oaks and olive groves punctuates the wheat fields and bull pastures. This is Alentejo, Portugal's largest and most sparsely populated region, with about a third of the country's area but only 5 per cent of its population.

The name comes from "alem Tejo," which means "beyond the Tagus," the river - called the Tejo in Portuguese - that forms Alentejo's northern border. For a long time, domestic tourists largely passed by the region. Most foreign tourists still do, preferring to head further south to the long beaches along the coast of the Algarve region.

"Most of them have no idea of what they're missing on the west coast of Alentejo," said Antonio, a 65-year-old retiree, before casting his fishing line.

It took a while for his hook to hit the Atlantic. Here on the Ponta de Sagres headland, there is a sheer 40-metre drop to the water. Antonio was standing a metre from the edge of the cliffs. Waves crashed against the rocks below. Behind him stood the fortress of Sagres.

"Portugal's most pristine coast starts over there," Antonio said, and pointed to the massive formation of cliffs on the horizon. It was the Cape of St. Vincent (Cabo de Sao Vicente), the south-westernmost tip of Europe.

The caravels of Portuguese kings once set sail there on journeys to conquer the coasts of Africa and to discover the sea route to India. The Southwest Alentejo and Vincentine Coast Nature Park starts at the sheer cliffs of Cabo de Sao Vicente. Extending more than 100 kilometres to Porto Covo, the park has romantic bays, breathtakingly steep cliffs, and idyllic beaches to offer.

The southwesternmost strip of Portugal's coast is a plant and animal paradise. It is home to seahawks as well as the famous white stork, which nests here and nowhere else in the world. The southern portion of the park is part of Algarve up to the village of Odeceixe. The area is a surfers' playground, and Praia do Amado beach is one of Europe's top surfing spots.

Monte Clerigo beach, a bit farther north, is a sleepier place, with powder sand, clear water and an eponymous fishing village cut into the rock at the beach's end. It and neighbouring Arrifana beach are a dream for German-born surfing instructor Peer Hartmann.

"You've always got waves here, 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, good temperatures for surfing even in wintertime, and, compared with southern Algarve, wonderfully empty, large beaches," Hartmann said.

The adjoining hinterland, he added, was also marvellous. Like a fata morgana, white farmhouses appear again and again on the horizon. Nearby, the Sierra de Monchique beckons hikers and climbers. Crystal clear reservoirs, such as the ones at Santa Clara and Monte da Rocha, are tucked among the pine forests. Dotting the coast are tranquil, enchanting villages, with romantic bays fit for bathing, such as Zambujeira do Mar.

Farther north, at the mouth of the Mira River, is Vila Nova de Milfontes and its small fortress. The river beaches attract lots of Portuguese families with children on weekends. Close to the northern end of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Nature Park lies the sleepy village of Porto Covo, with colourful fishing boats swaying in the harbour.